The Good, The Bad & The Ugly of Devil’s Path

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DSC02902The clouds play hide and seek through the Catskill mountains and New York State below me. Laughing, they glide past me spreading their cold mist around the short summit trees of Indian Head and covering me in fog. I follow the red trail blazes blindly as they lead me sloshing through puddles and gliding over waxy roots. The plateau is filled with the sharp scent of pine.

DSC02910Soon, wetness is soaking through my pants as I slide down rocks and crawl through the orange clay and dead leaf paste. My useless hiking poles hang from my wrists. The trail is a river.

DSC02901I push forward watching my footing until suddenly there is a cliff.  My muscles are shaking as I shimmy down safely. A grey cloud blows aggressively past me dragging hail and fear with it.

Out of breath, I reach the sheltered notch and pass a blue blazed trail to resume climbing. The summit of Twin Mountain is calling me and the sun is peaking through the clouds. “Maybe this section of the trail won’t be so bad” I think, even though I know the guide book description doesn’t give any idea of which sections are the most difficult.

DSC02905The peak is fresh, open and cold. I stop for a snack and to put my rain jacket back on for what will probably be a complicated and slow moving descent.

I negotiate loose rock only to come to an almost impassable cliff. Looking down, my stomach drops, there is a red blaze at the bottom.

DSC02907I am so tired by this point that I throw both my pack and hiking poles down first, without caring if my camera breaks or my water bladder tears. There is still a half mile to the escape trail and I know I have to get off this mountain. Sugarloaf, and it’s extra long descent, will have to wait for another day. I grab a large root and face the wet rock as I climb down like my father taught me, testing each hand and foot hold before trusting it.DSC02906

My heart beats out of my chest as I heft my pack on and continue the vicious descent. The devil holds my life in his hands as I weaken. It is like a horror movie. My knees ache and my muscles cramp but I know I can’t stop until I am down. It is the right decision to get to safety.

DSC02903I conquered two brutal mountains this Mother’s Day. Devil’s Path put both Mt. Washington and Mt. Katahdin to shame but they proved to me my strength and ability to know my own limits. The mountains don’t care if we give our lives to them. We win if we respect their indifference. We win if we enjoy their beauty.

DSC02896Special thanks to my husband, for driving me out; Clean Sweep, for offering to pick me up and Longhunter, for ultimately rescuing me from a seven hour bus ride home. If you are contemplating doing this trail, be thoughtful and careful. Here’s the topo map you will need to purchase and some websites to check out with trail descriptions: Trimble Outdoors and  Two Heel Drive.

How To Backpack While Pregnant

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Or “Beaver Fever”, as my two pregnant companions lovingly deemed our adventure ;)

DSC02742Can you backpack while pregnant? The answer is a resounding YES! In 1977 Donna Satterlee discovered she was pregnant during her Appalachian Trail thru-hike. With her physicians assurance, she finished the trail in six months before giving birth to her daughter, Georgia Maine Satterlee.DSC02795

A couple of weeks ago two pregnant Hot Mamas, Julie from Maine and Alpine Florist, joined me for a short backpacking trip on the Nipmuck Trail near the Massachusetts/Connecticut border. Backpacking while pregnant was unknown territory for us so we had to try this out very carefully. There was some sobbing, throwing up (normal for one mamas pregnancy) and the realization that nothing was the same as before. But the ladies seemed to have a wonderful time on our loop around Breakneck Pond.DSC02729

We started out with hip belts that not only did not fit the current circumference of the gorgeous mommy bellies but felt strange settled below the usual placement. After many pee breaks, which made me feel much better about my own thimble sized bladder, with no pregnancy excuse, the girls came to understand how different their sense of balance was. Luckily our camp was only about six miles in, over moderately easy terrain, so they easily got a feel for their new center of gravity.

DSC02817We settled in at our secluded site and after some fussing with our stoves, we enjoyed our afternoon tea looking out at the pond. Sunset brought a visit from a curious beaver, who swam back and forth in front of our site as we filtered water. The fire crackled as we sang a quiet “happy birthday” to Alpine Florist that included a delicious cranberry/peach/coconut crisp, lovingly baked by our friend Julie (she has a blog too…Food! Fuel! Fun!).DSC02803

The night was cold and we struggled at moments to sleep through the chill despite our gear being more than up to the task. But by morning, even my pregnant companions were ready for the day ahead. There were a few more rocks to navigate on this side of the lake but the ladies took it slow and listened to their bodies, and before we knew it we were out to the road by lunch.DSC02753

Pregnancy shouldn’t stop you from doing the things you loved to do before pregnancy, after you apply some extra care and thought. If you haven’t backpacked before, then camping without the hike might be a better option.

The happy hot mamas kept their pack weight down (let your fellow hikers help) and we didn’t choose a difficult trail. Pick your most comfortable sleeping equipment (consider Maternity Belly Support and Extra Thick Sleeping Pads), bring lots of food choices and drink plenty of water.

Listen to your body and check with your doctor if you are not sure. The woods can be renewing and exciting during a time when you feel like nothing but a walking incubator, so enjoy responsibly!

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Light

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A mother’s happiness is like a beacon, lighting up the future but reflected also on the past in the guise of fond memories.

Honore de Balzac

DSC02865DSC02860DSC02869DSC02854DSC02868DSC02890 My mother taught me to find joy in small hidden treasures without losing sight of the landscape. She gave me the patter of rain drops on my tent and the smiling sunrise that follows. Now, she is a dear friend. Brave and accepting of the risks I take, she reminds me to follow my dreams. Thank you, Mom and Happy Mother’s Day!

On the Edge of the Wild

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DSC02837I lay in my tent with the icy cold of spring darkness numbing the tip of my nose and fingers. Passing cars hum in the distance as my book engrosses me. I relish my cocoon and the alone time of hiking solo.

My hike began late with a long road walk and just as I headed into the woods and began to descend, a valley of skunk cabbage revealed itself like an oasis in the dull, brown forest. I walked along the trickling stream that awoke this bright valley, as it became a flowing, meandering watercourse.DSC02842

Rushing up and over chunky hills and down the old woods roads used by sport vehicles, I continued to hike to one of the few shelters in our blue-blazed hiking system. The trail followed the top of pine shaded cliffs and skirted the edge of a swamp as the sun tried to squeeze through the hibernating trees on it’s way down for the night.

DSC02853A cold wind chilled my sweaty skin as I reached the view from atop a set of rocky ledges. I tried to verify the unmarked path that led to the shelter with map and compass.

There are risks when you hike alone and this close to civilization. A large, smokey fire and a jeep parked nearby warned me that the shelter was full of strangers. Before they saw me, I turned back and continued down the long descent, knowing that my impending stealth camp was not unexpected. I missed the Appalachian Trail though, where strangers mean stories and a friendly welcome.

DSC02850Too quickly I was at a road that had to be crossed to continue into the woods for the last six miles of the Narragansett trail. I had hiked much farther and faster than I thought was possible with the weight of early spring luxuries, like fleece pants, in my pack. A safe spot, about a quarter mile back in the woods, with a sunset view and small hills on either side became my camp. Once pitched, my grey tarp tent blended in among the jagged, granite boulders.

After dinner, I settled into my sleeping bag and fell easily into contemplation and eventually, reading and sleep. A pack of coyotes came by twice that night, making me thankful to have eaten cold salmon instead of cooked chicken with its wafting, tasty smell. Right as I was formulating a plan to live through a coyote attack, a female barred owl came to call directly above my tent.DSC02845

Her call, “Who cooks for you? Who cooks for you all?” sounded like a kazoo at that proximity. “Who cooks for you?” answered a male owl from behind the hills. I didn’t move a muscle as I listened to their short conversation, filled with a mix of hoots and variations of the original call that can come with spring courtship.

Soon my friend flew off to find her mysterious companion, the calls faded into the distance leaving me alone and awake with excitement. In this less-than-wild land there was still so much life around me calling and answering, moving through the darkness on missions like mine yet still so different and alien to me. And I was sleeping here witnessing it with only my senses.

The Importance of Fire

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IMG_2692Guest Post By The Longhunter

Fire is the beginning. It is here that we drive the stake into the ground and start our path outward. Every person who puts one foot in the front of the other and heads into the unknown should know fire. You can weather anything if you master fire.

Why is fire important?

The first and obvious answer is that fire warms the body. Sure whatever. Today’s women hikers are mothers and adventurers. What is a little bit of cold when compared to today’s issues of growing up, spousal abuse, divorce, or labor pains? Eat an energy bar, put a sweater on, and keep moving. The real value of fire isn’t merely physical.

Ernie Pyle was a famous journalist during World War II. In one his many articles on the war in France, he told a story about how one military hospital always kept a fireplace going. He asked the doctor in charge why the fire was always going even during the heat of the day. The doctor told him, “Open your bloody eyes and see.” The doctor pointed to a throng of GI’s huddled around the hearth, some of them even shivering. The doctor continued, “these men are all sorts of screwed up, the fire soothes the psyche, makes them feel safe even as the shells explode around us.”DSC02423

That is the true value of fire. People can endure all sorts of hardships and horrors, not because they are tougher—but because their mind was equipped to handle it. Fire buys you time, time to think, time to sort emotions, and time to sort out the problems at hand. Fire soothes the psyche.

There is more to fire psychology than just being able to survive. Fire makes us thrive. Humans are different than other species. We innovate and use tools. We are social animals. We are also the only species on earth that intentionally lights fire. The easiest way to make quality time with loved ones is to light a fire. Many of our rituals are born in fire. Campfire sing-alongs, birthday candles, romantic dinners, and barbecues all bring us together. Fire marks the social mileposts behind each of us as we walk life’s long roads.

Life Under the Skeletons

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Into the sky rises a long grey giant. The living, yet silent, frames branch away from the center and the skeleton stretches into the blue above my head. Little rosy buds pop like fingers from the extended, rough bones. A strand of hair blows across my face as I stare up through this shivering tree to the grey roiling clouds beyond who threaten to unleash their cleansing drops as I enjoy this moment of contemplation.

The strands of weathered, dead grass behind my head feel like straw and the smell of mud surfaces through the damp earth. These skeletons provide such little cover, as the leaves are just being born. The birds know to excitedly await the storm in the low hanging greenery of nearby evergreens. From the earth and the sun and these clouds comes life to shelter life, and beauty for me to enjoy between chores or on long walks.

Compared to the farm chores, my currently distracted child, and the responsibilities that weigh on my chest; the agitation of nature seems unambiguous and manageable. I take a deep breath as the first drop hits my cheek; I will be cold soon. Funny that we find kissing in the rain to be romantic.

Better get back to work.

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Devilish Hikes: Journey vs. Destination

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Hikers are always debating what is the most valuable part of an adventure, the journey or the destination. I think we’ve forgotten some important points when defending our positions.

I have always considered myself very much a “journey” kind of person. On the Appalachian Trail in 2005 that was the crux of hiking with my husband. He was a “destination” kind of person. I loved hiking to a different place to sleep every night and not knowing what it would look like or who would share it with us but I could also leave that behind for a week at a single shelter exploring the local trails and filling my memory card with everything from macro to landscapes. I was interested in every experience, but all my husband wanted to do was get to the end of the trail as quickly as possible. Not a great combination!

After being at home with my beautiful son for three years I found myself desperate to finish something big. After all, 18 years is a long time to wait to finish my current project, raising my son. I was also longing for solitude when I came across an article in Backpacker magazine with multiple short but interesting backpacking trips. The Northville-Placid Trail came up as a little-known hike winding through the secluded lakes in the Adirondacks. In other words, 132 miles of both solitude and a goal achievable in a two-week period. As I watched YouTube videos and read the trail journals of the few people who had done the trail recently, I fell in love with the trail and yearned to see it to the end. All of a sudden I was a “destination” person. I was going to finish this hike.

As humans are we goal oriented creatures? Yes. I think we can almost say that “journey” lovers and “destination” lovers are that same goal-oriented person on two different scales. The big question is…can you appreciate the small stuff or not?

This summer I am faced with only a short amount of backpacking time and need to make the most of it. If I can’t go for a long hike trip, I’ll opt for two devilishly hard ones!

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Devil’s Path, Photographed by Daniel Case

My first hike will be on Devil’s Path in the Catskills of New York, know as one of the hardest trails in the northeast, with 14,000ft of elevation change in only 24 miles, extremely rewarding views and challenging terrain. I don’t mind the burn or a little fear when I can pack in the excitement of a two-week trip into three or four days.

File:Pine Creek Gorge, Tioga County, as seen from the West Rim Trail.jpg

Photo of the Pine Creek Gorge by Nicholas from Pennsylvania, click on the photo to see where I got it.

My second challenge of the summer will be to complete the Black Forest Trail in Pennsylvania. Forty-two killer miles with breathtaking views of Pine Creek Gorge, known as the Pennsylvania Grand Canyon. If the steep ascents and descents don’t finish my knees, then I may head to Mt. Washington at the end of the summer for a quick 6000ft summit filled with childhood memories.

While I’ll enjoy the anticipation of my two upcoming hikes, neither one will offer that great time in the second week of backpacking when your pack feels light and you have finally passed the pain threshold into speed and enjoyment. Instead I will battle the fatigue with everything I have to give. I will battle my worrying nature as well; can I accomplish my dreams with all my energy used for what-ifs?

I came to the conclusion that I can stop and smell the flowers, or pick the wild blueberries, and still be stubborn enough to make it to the end. I’ll build in to my schedule enough time for the journey, and whatever changes it has in store for me. Embrace the dark side of these devilish trails, push myself and come out achieving what I set out to do, I hope. Wish me success and stay tuned for some awesome pics come summertime!

The Threshold of Spring

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DSC02634One minute we’re stepping over logs and calling to the dogs not to sniff the mysterious pile just off the trail, and the next thing we know Alpine Florist is walking at light speed toward the the end of the trail mumbling between laughs about needing stuffed cabbage and pumpkin pie NOW!

That’s what you get when you mix a pregnant hot mama and a long overdue day in the woods. Trials, triumph and a whole lot of silly for 5 miles on the Nehantic Trail in Griswold, CT.

DSC02618After meeting with Mustache Mama at the parking lot by Hopeville Pond, the three of us commenced a short road walk to the western terminus of the Nehantic Trail. We hurried to take a trailhead photo, wrangling our overly excited trail dogs, Musket and First Responder. The trail ascended along a small ridge, in and out of a thick pine forest that had shielded the last of the frozen snow. Shadows and a chilly wind haunted this section of trail. We soon passed out of it onto a gentle slope with small streams crossing from our right to left that now hold the remnants of what used to power an old mill.

DSC02612As we ascended out of this memory-filled section Alpine Florist, our beautiful pregnant Hot Mama, had to stop and catch her breath. I could feel her frustration as she lamented the energy her baby took from her and told us how much she didn’t want her second pregnancy to take away the hiking she loved so much. We rested and laughed about the discomfort of having another life occupy your body, all of us having gone through this before. Ready to continue, Alpine Florist waved me ahead in between giggles. Her determination showed as we continued to talk and take on a muddy ascent, which on the way back prompted a particularly R-Rated conversation about zipping sleeping bags together and the pleasures of stepping over large logs – don’t ask, it’s not repeatable.

DSC02621After crossing a couple of roads we came to an airy section of pine forest that took my breath away. Alpine Florist had caught her stride and daydreamed of going further than the five mile out-and-back we had planned. Picking up our pace we were soon hungry enough to stop for an early lunch. We ate under a tree you would only have thought to find in a fairy tale. Dainty, translucent white leaves hung aglow from every inch of the tree under the bluest sky. Pepperoni, oranges and protein bars were shared as the dogs ate treats when they didn’t beg. Pepperoni is not easy to resist for dogs and hikers alike.

DSC02629We huffed up a short, but not easy, ascent and continued on an immense switchback to hike on the other side of a rocky outcrop near our lunch spot. We walked past beautiful grey and moss colored rocks as the dogs ran back and forth by us enjoying the short, flat stretch.

Soon we came upon the dirt road that signalled our turn-around time. We rested on some rocks and reminisced about how the last time we were here, we had hiked the wrong trail.DSC02615

Feeling totally revitalized, Alpine Florist took the lead on the way back and I got some great shots of her and Mustache Mama working it down the trail. We retraced our steps and appreciated everything from the other direction. Musket, our trail puppy, was really getting the hang of being out there with us. Alpine Florist’s shins were glad he decided not to run back and forth at top speed. We continued quite happily until we noticed what sounded like geese chattering on a pond.

DSC02622Since it had been winter for so long, we stopped to listen to this vaguely familiar sign of life. As we stared out into the small marsh a hundred feet off the trail we realized there were no geese. It was frogs, released from their winter slumber and happily taking back their melted home. We even noticed a turtle sunning himself in the warm mud. Once we noticed there were modest buds on the larger trees, we could really believe spring was on it’s way.

DSC02633Just as we were getting near to the end, and were taking one of many mama potty breaks, Mustache Mama got a call. Now, discussing food near ravenous hikers can be dangerous. When apple pie and ice cream were mentioned Alpine Florist just lost it. We were all hungry for a hearty dinner and dessert, but Alpine Florist knew exactly what she wanted…stuffed cabbage and pumpkin pie, yum!

So off she went, leaving us laughing in the dust as we struggled to keep up. We put the dogs on leash and finished the road walk back to our cars. And last I heard she did get her stomach’s desire, or maybe it was really Baby D’s.

DSC02625Spring is about rebirth and awakening. There are few things more amazing than bringing a new person into being. Congrats Alpine Florist, our beautiful Hot Mama, on the new hiker-mini you are so lovingly bring to life. We are all looking forward to meeting the little one. <3 Znara

Spring Meet-Ups

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Over half of Connecticut is covered in forest and we love to explore every mile of it! If you live in CT, RI or MA and would like to join us, below are the hikes we have planned this spring. Please register for each hike here, on facebook or email us at hotmamahikers@yahoo.com. Click on the name of the hike for a map of where to meet.

“I felt my lungs inflate with the onrush of scenery—air, mountains, trees, people. I thought, “This is what it is to be happy.”
― Sylvia Plath, The Bell Jar

DSC00328Sunday March 24th

Welcome New Members Hike: If you’ve been wanting to come for a hike with us, this is the perfect chance to put on your pack and join! It will be a moderate hike of 5 miles (total out & back) on the Nehantic Trail in Jewett City, CT. Don’t worry if you are new to hiking, we take it slow and enjoy our surroundings. Not sure what to bring…click here. We will meet at 10am.

Sunday April 7th

DSC00295Kid’s Natural Treasure Hunt Hike: All ages are welcome on this 1.25 mile hike in Gay City State Park, we especially look forward to seeing our slightly injured companions. Meet in the parking lot at 11am for this easy hike out to a little pond on the Blackledge River using the red, blue and white trails.  We’ll stop and have a picnic and enjoy the lovely view. While we are walking you can help the kids find the treasures that nature has to offer…pinecones, rocks, mushrooms, birds etc. Check them off on the sheet provided and there will be a special prize at the end. The rain date will be Sunday April 14th.

DSC01377Saturday April 27 – Sunday April 28th

Backpack locally with Hot Mamas! We have tents to spare so come camp with us for two days, hike 18 miles of moderate terrain, and have lots of fun! Email us for all the details at hotmamahikers@yahoo.com.

Sunday May 19th

Tough-Mama Hike: Weave into Rhode Island and back through 10 miles of mixed terrain. Enjoy rolling, beautiful trail and then challenge yourself on the more rugged, rocky sections of the Pachaug Trail. Boy Scouts & Adults welcome! We’ll meet at 8:30am so we can move cars to the other end of this section of trail then hike south to Beach Pond. We will hike rain or shine so dress appropriately, bring a flashlight or headlamp and plenty of food and water.

IMG_0237Saturday May 25th

Seashell Kid’s Hike: Explore Bluff Point State Park with this easy three mile hike full of hidden coves, lovely CT forest and sea views. All ages welcome! Don’t forget to bring…sunscreen, a pail and shovel (for play along the way), lunch and plenty of drinking water. We’ll meet at 1o:30am and in case of rain we will postpone this adventure to Saturday June 1st.

Dogs are always welcome! Don’t hesitate to ask questions and make requests for future hikes, we love to hear what you are thinking.  We will post any event updates or cancellation info on our facebook page. Please remember that we are not guides, just a group of people who love the outdoors and want to share our experiences with friends.

One Foot in Front of the Other

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“put one foot in front of the other”

mantra, description, declaration of intent as I face a difficult journey this year…

1. Lit. to walk deliberately.

2. Fig. to do things carefully and in their proper order.*

At the beginning of a long hike your muscles are stiff and don’t remember how to respond to the impulses they receive. Sluggish as they withdraw from mud with a suck and raw with the cold; you put one foot in front of the other. You know how many miles are in front of you and though excited by the journey, the next beautiful view seems out of reach. There are so many bends. Can you remember them all by yourself when dark, mangled trees block the sun?082In the middle of the journey you hit your stride and can ride out any ache. Push hard as you pass the beauty of the woods and become part of your surroundings. Moving at such speed, deliberately putting one foot in front of the other, baffles the plants around you. Adapting to the terrain comes easily; from short choppy steps through roots, long strides on soft pine needles, and knees up over rocks. Mile after mile passes with little map reading. The way seems so clear and the blazes, well marked.213As the day wears on your muscles begin to weaken. Trying to lift each leg through the motionless air takes the last of your reserves. But if you put one foot in front of the other and look around, you’ll notice that beauty hasn’t abandoned you. Light plays among the bright and muted greens, greys, browns, and blues, supporting each step as time slowly passes. You don’t stop walking, even though it seems so hard to close the final stretch. Your journey is over quickly and you are different, delighted with achievement and feeling no regrets.

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*Definition above from The Free Dictionary